Itchy Feet

This is the second part of my memories from a holiday in Uttaranchal a couple of years ago. Read Kumaon journey 1 first.

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Moving on half-heartedly from Kausani, we then made our way to Binsar. We had been warned that travel to Binsar included a steep incline on a one track road for the last twenty kilometers or so, and we were looking forward to that.

From Kausani to Binsar, we drove through some of the most beautiful countryside; every turn of the road producing a new surprise. On the way, we cross quaint bridges, and stop at the banks of little streams that crisscross all over the valleys. We catch the distant snow-covered mountains play hide and seek with us and we play along. They travel with you all through the way, now you see them and now you don’t.

We passed through the Baijnath temples, situated on the banks of the river Gomti. Morning prayers were going on in one of the temples containing a large idol of Goddess Parvati. The remaining idols have been kept in the local museum; this is the only temple where the deity is worshipped everyday. These temples date back to the twelfth century and in the early morning quiet, it is almost possible to close your eyes and feel transported back in time. Stepping down to the river banks, it is a pleasure to watch the fish come out to feed. Breakfast time, folks!



And we seem to have saved the best for the last. Binsar was in a word: spell-binding (or is that actually two words?). As you drive up the narrow, steep, single-lane tracks, the view gets better and better. A short two km trek along shaded paths with tall oak and rhododendron trees lining the way, takes you to the top. At 8000 feet above mean sea level is a rickety looking watch-tower. Steel your nerves, take a deep breath and climb on. For, the view from the tower is that of a 300 km stretch of the Himalayas, all the way up to Badrinath and Kedarnath on a clear day. Our guide even tried to point out his house on the China border but then you know what tourist guides are like.

The entire region is a protected bird sanctuary and home to a large number of animals including leopards and wild boar. As you trek up, you can almost hear the laughing deer and growling leopards above and below you. The guide tells you abut the wild animals that come out on to the roads you are walking on at night. You glance nervously around you and note that there are no other humans in sight and that you have been hearing strange noises for a while.



Away from civilization as we know it, near the top is a KMVN (Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) guest-house. Stay there for an out-of-this-world experience – the guesthouse has no electricity! We wanted to stop for the night there but opted out on the advice of our driver – Aap Bombay se hain? Aap ki toh kulfi jam jaayegi. Binsar, we were told, is cut off from the rest of the world for two to three months a year. The employees of the guesthouse stock up on their needs by end of November and stay prepared awaiting the bitter winter months.

Incidentally, throughout Kumaon, you can safely stay at the KVMN guesthouses everywhere. They are decent and well priced, and are built at the best locations.

Stop at the Khali estate either on your drive up or down from Binsar. Soak in the views and have the famed Gujarati thali if you are there in the right season. And reflect on the fact that the estate is called ‘khali’ not after some local deity but to signify ‘empty’… Imagine the place as it would have been fifty years ago, isolated and completely khaali… That is such a humbling experience in itself.

A word of caution here: if you are the types looking for touristy ‘sight-seeing’ things to do, you’d do well to stay away from Kausani and Binsar. The only sights here are those of the magnificent mountains, which one can never tire of…

Coming down the hills, we stopped at Naukutchiatal on our way back to Kathgodam for the train. You would do well to overlook the more crowded Nanital and Sattal and head straight for this peaceful spot. This lake with nine corners is the perfect place to just relax and savour those moments before heading back to city life. Amble along the walks on the banks, take a slow shikara ride and chat with the boat-man about the region, take a pony ride or just hire a boat and row out into the lake yourself.

Kumaon is a place where nature completely takes over… where else would you see a signboard saying ‘animals have right of way’. Through your journey in Kumaon, you will hear the tinkle of temple bells; these are offered to the local deities here in return for divine favours sought and bestowed. As for the smells, we caught only the waft of alu parathas in winter, but in peak season, the smell of apples and rhododendron flowers accompany you. And of course, through the year, the smell of fresh and clean mountain air stays with you… And leaves you longing for more.

The hills are alive with the sound of… silence? Although calling the magnificent Himalayas ‘hills’ is rather like calling Mickey Mouse a rat.

Uttaranchal offers something for everyone… mountains, rivers, lakes, glaciers, wildlife sanctuaries, temples. You can stand by and watch from a distance and be awed by the breath-taking splendor of it all - the way I did. Or you can jump right into the spirit of things and trek, ski or raft if the adventure bug has bitten you. Either way, Uttaranchal fills your senses…… and the feeling remains long after you leave the place.

Uttaranchal is divided into two regions : Kumaon and Garhwal. We went to Kumaon in December last year. Looking for peace and quiet. A place to get away from it all. And no, we didn’t take it all with us… not even a good camera – which is why the bad quality pictures that do no justice to what I saw. Kumaon region itself offers many many holiday ideas, of which we managed only a few within a short holiday of five days. Starting from Ranikhet, the queen’s field.

As you alight at Kathgodam, the last railway station in this region, you feel the difference in the air. The air here is so fresh and pure that you can almost hear your city-smoke filled lungs crying out in pleasure.

True to its name, Ranikhet is a lovely place. The best thing to do in Ranikhet is simply walk around the town, soaking in the long-range views of the Nanda Devi and Trishul. It was early winter and the trees were a riot of the colours of autumn. If you want to get the true feel of the place, then stay away from the marked touristy spots and chart your own course in and around the town.

A day in Ranikhet and we were hungry to move on… the promise of better things to come. And we made our way to Kausani. Where Gandhiji had spent a few months meditating and writing on Anashakti Yoga. A memorial to Gandhi stands there, with rare pictures of the man and his life. Which is the only place to ‘visit’ in Kausani. Other than this, what Kausani offers is Himalayan views, splendid and uninterrupted. Nanda Devi, Nandakot, Trishul, Panchchuli. I cannot think of anything better to do on a holiday than to sit on the low walls of the Anashakti Ashram and sip chai, as you watch the sun go down on the distant mountain ranges.

Ditto for the sunrise. Kausani is one of those rare holiday options where one feels inspired to brave the bitter cold and wake up early just to watch the sun rise over the distant mountain ranges. It is a wonder how nature can play around with so many colours at the same time on the same large canvas… the bright oranges and purples merging with the muted yellows and pinks, all against a pale blue background…

Matheran is said to have a purported thirty eight view points - all duly identified and named. When we reach there on a rainy Saturday expecting it to be empty (why did we think no one else was foolish enough to brave it all the way up in the heavy rain?), the place is jumping with tourists. They hurry from view point to view point, loudly complaining, arrey par view to same hi hai...

Thirteen viewpoints down, how many more to go?

It has been raining all week; the drive is smooth and refreshing, the wind rushing up your ears as you leave the car windown down...

We stop regularly at sudden waterfalls that have sprung up on the hillside due to the constant downpour. Ditto for potholes and puddles.








In a world that boasts of largeness and moreness (whatever that means), a charming board at Dasturi Naka enroute to Matheran proudly announces - Matheran is the tiniest hillstation in the world. Awwww...

And more importantly, Matheran is the only pedestrian destination in Asia. Imagine, no cars, no blaring horns, no fumes... Traffic jam is when two ponies meet midway on opposite sides to their ride to and from the top and exchange pleasantries... Other than that, traffic, neigh...

The best thing to do in Matheran is nothing. Walk around aimlessly, do not look for any point - you will hit one or the other soon anyway- and when you do, stop to stare open-mouthed at the gorgeous greens all around... Isn't it funny how good green actually smells?

Stop also for garam chai and pakoras and chikki too. Chat up with local shopkeepers and hears tories of leopards and tigers that used to roam the hills.

Stop glancing around nervously aorund you and resume aimless walk.

Forget that holidays are meant to sleep in late - wake up early and find your way through the fog... Feeel extremely pleased when you land up at a viewpont and find no view there. Just more fog. Heh! Walk to Charlotte lake and tut tut about how muddy it all looks...



Curse when you see the time...

Don't let that prevent you from taking more stops on the drive down, hoping to catch a glimpse of the toy train.

You spot the train, but it is just that, a toy stationed on the tracks...



Take in the smell and sounds of rain somewhere in the distance...

As fellow blogger and flickr mate Chandru said there, funny thing about english language - the skies open up when the clouds close in...



Damn! Bombay is so hot...